Today I’ve travelled 100 miles north from Quebec City to the thoroughly intriguing city of Saguenay. As you approach, you drive through the usual North American suburban tedium – and suddenly find yourself on the shore of a fjord that runs east to the St Lawrence River. A waterside boardwalk takes you towards a compelling industrial archaeological site. The old papermill is now a museum, while the ruins of an early hydroelectric project on “Electric Island” are at the centre of a thrilling urban park.

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